Telegraph Cove 

How to cook a Whale come upon dead on shore

North Vancouver Island Map

Story of my first visit here

Story of second visit

Story of third visit

Story of fourth visit

Letter from Thomas Sewid 2/4/2005

This is in my opinion, the best sea kayaking in the Northwestern United States. I haven't been everywhere surely, but only this place was more interesting than the San Juan's, Gulf Islands, Bunsby Islands, & the Deer Group. The Indian history alone sets it apart. How many places can you go and still see totem poles in there original positions with longhouse remains without going to the Queen Charlotte islands which are much more time consuming to do and cost much more. I have talked to a number of people who have gone to Queen Charlottes and Telegraph Cove and all have preferred the latter. It is only 11 hours from Spokane. I have driven there by myself from Friday morning and been paddling early Saturday, and been back by Sunday night The Mamalillaculla Island is the first place you must visit although there are many camping sites here. Mamalillaculla is a must visit since there is a great man who lives there in the summer named Tom Sewid (Seaweed pronunciation). He gives tours (which are works of art) of the Indian history of the local islands for a modest fee. In full costume he dances and tells mystical stories. Entirely unique each time. The last time I was there, a black bear was eating plums out of a tree only 50 feet off with the branches bowing over with its weight while he told his stories rifle near at hand. All the pictures you see on this page and below are of this one island or on the way to it. You must be very skilled as a sea kayaker before attempting this trip due to strong tides and due to the number of islands (in the hundreds). Season is best June 30 through August 30. This is the highest density of Killer whales in the world during this time. See Robson point for most whale density, but we see them almost every crossing of Blackfish Sound.

Once you are in the water, have cameras ready for eagles, and whales. Time your paddle with currents so that outflow to Northerly sea is ending by the time you cross the first crossing which is Johnstone strait. A GPS device is highly recommended with a compass to guide you. Use the sea navigation map (available at any map store or have them order it, this map is a must have for doing any paddling here) to enter each point you want to paddle to into your GPS. Let the GPS lead you across the tides which cannot be against you or you will not be able to paddle against them. Cross at the West side of Hanson Island through the confusing Plumper islands. As the tide begins flowing into the islands here you will be pulled into the easterly direction across Blackfish Sound toward Comption Island to the East of Swanson Island. There is a camping site on a beach facing Compton on Swanson, but watch your gear here as there has been some theft problem. Do not camp on the Compton Island as it is leased by kayaking tour groups. Almost any other place is okay as long as you know the name of the Band office person you spoke to and sent your money to. I stay with the guide at Mamalillaculla as he is very friendly, and he will direct you to good campsites since they do not want you camping on Mamalillaculla island due to large bear populations. If the opening at Compton on the east side of the small island is flowing too strong against you, go around the other side of the island. Compton is the entryway that the tribes defended against enemies and it leads you down a narrow corridor of passing one island after another to Mamalillaculla. Once past Compton you are safe from storms and tides until arriving at Mamalillaculla. The distance to Mamalillaculla is almost twenty miles so plan a day of it getting there although it can be fairly easy if you hit the tides right. We've done it in four hours at best.